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Please can I have some help, internet?
November 28, 2008
I have got the whole of saturday to myself this weekend, and I decided it might be time to make a proper start on my wedding dress. But I am in 2 minds about so many things!
1. The fabric.
I love my fabric an insane amount, but I am really in 2 minds about which side of the fabric to use. It's a blush coloured duchesse satin, and has one extremely shiny side (almost like it's liquid) and one side which is a lot duller, but still has definite sheen to it.
I have been finding it very hard to photograph the fabric to show you what I mean, but I found a website selling silk duchesse satin, and this is exactly what the shiny side of my fabric looks like, but obviously in a different colour: Click here.
Here is my fabric on the other side - it is the one on the bottom of the pile. You can see it is a lot duller, but if I hold it around myself in the daylight it still is very sheeny.
I'm not sure if the very shiny side is too much, especially as my dress will be straight to mid thigh but then flare dramatically? I do like the dull side better, but I don't know if you're allowed to use that side! Or even which side is the right side! But then again, the shiny side is also so gorgeous and certainly more spectacular! I'm torn between thinking "it's my wedding day, I should look at glamourous as possible", but also not wanting to look outrageously shiny.
Please help, I really need opinions, especially if there's something very practical I'm not considering. Also if anyone knows what the right side of the fabric is, I would love to know. I have looked and looked online, and most dresses seem sheeny rather than shiny, if that makes sense!
2. The muslin.
I foolishly cut my muslin a size too small, as I had forgotten what an enormous bum I have. I have adjusted the muslin to fit around the bust and it's fine, but it looks weird over my belly. I don't know if that's because it's too tight around the hips, but I can't let it out around the hips because there's not enough fabric! What do I do?! Do I just wade in with the real fabric, this time cutting it with enough fabric around the hips, and assume it will look ok, because it's the right size? Or is that idiotic and I need to make another muslin? I'm scared to cut my ludicrously expensive silk! I really want this to look perfect.
3. Buttons with loops.
I want to cover the zipper on the back with little buttons covered with the dress fabric, and loops to fasten them. I searched the internet and apparently these are called rouleaux loops, but does anyone have any idea how I will sew them in? Should I attach them to a strip of interfacing, and sew that in at the same time I fit the zipper? Kind of like this, but with a zipper thrown in there as well! If anyone has any ideas please let me know.
Thanks a lot in advance, internet. Any help/opinions greatly appreciated.
Posted by jen at November 28, 2008 11:19 AM
Comments
I really like the shiny side but i think it would depend a lot on the style of the dress, it wouldn't look quite right if it were too tight but i think it would look amazing if it were gathered and flowing like on the skirt of the dress, again its a little difficult to tell. With regards to the right side, my mum always told me that its whatever you want it to be, its your dress, the whole point in you making it is that it can be what YOU want :). Also with the muslin my advice would be that if you are that panicy about cutting your 'real' fabric, and i can understand this, then make it again, i know it takes time, but you'll regret it if you plunge ahead and get it wrong just because of a little time.
Hope this helps and good luck. Cant wait to see the final result :)
Posted by: Jenny at November 28, 2008 12:18 PM
I don't think there's any such thing as looking "outrageously shiny" on your wedding day. The shiny side is really really beautiful and will make such a statement. It's the one day when you get to look absolutely spectacular and I think the shiny side will definitely achieve that - but then I'm a bit of a magpie and love all things shiny!
I think if you're not sure about the muslin it might be a good plan to redo it. You don't want to be worrying about it when you're cutting the expensive material and also thinking about it on the day. Having said all of this I don't know anything about dress making so don't necessarily take this advice too seriously!
Posted by: Katy at November 28, 2008 12:31 PM
Honestly, I'd make another muslin. You really want to see exactly how it's going to fit before cutting into the expensive stuff!
I don't know which is the right side of the satin, but it's your wedding day, you can look as shiny or as sheeny as you want. There is not right or wrong, you just want a dress that is going to make you feel fabulous.
Posted by: ginchy at November 28, 2008 01:04 PM
I have never even come close to sewing a wedding dress but here's my two cents.
I read from your previous post that you are making Vogue 7848, version C. I think the shinyness or otherwise should depend on the setting for your wedding. If you are having a less formal event I do think too much shine would be a little distracting. A sheeny dress, if the fabric is substantial, would look classy. But if you can't decide along the sheeny/shiny conundram, maybe you can decide to have one or more sections in the shiny side of the fabric and the others on the sheeny side.
As regards to the muslin, I do think a second muslin will be better if you have the time.
Posted by: Jali at November 28, 2008 03:56 PM
1) the shiny side is definately the right side.
also, it's your wedding! you deserve to be centre-stage!
2) make and adjust toiles until you get a perfect one. there's no point in them otherwise.
3) buy 'the reader's digest guide to sewing'. it has everything.
Posted by: Anushka at November 28, 2008 04:25 PM
I like the less sheeny side. :)
Posted by: Sarah at November 28, 2008 07:08 PM
I think (probably) that the right side of the fabric is the more shiney side. It might be possible to check by looking at the selvedges (edges) of the fabric. There might be rows of small holes from the machine the fabric was on when it was woven. If so, it should be possible from looking at the edges of the holes to tell which way the needles that made them went through the fabric. The right side is the side that the needles went into the fabric on, and the wrong side is the side they came out on bending a small amount of fabric back around the edges of the hole. If you run your finger over the holes on both surfaces the rougher side will be the wrong side. I hope this sort of makes sense. My mum did a lot of sewing and this was something that she taught me to check if it wasn't obvious which side of a fabric was which. The usual rule is to use the right side of the fabric for the right side of the garment, but 'rules are there to be broken', so use whichever side prefer/like and feel happiest with! Let us know how you go!
Posted by: Kathryn at November 28, 2008 07:40 PM
1. Make another muslin if there is time.
2. Either side of the fabric will make a great dress. You might want to consider how the dress itself will look in wedding photos. If it were me, I would care more about how I looked in the dress live on the day itself rather than how it photographs, but still, you might consider a chat with your photographer about if one side of the fabric or the other will present serious photographic challenges - will the dull side look washed out and poorly-defined in photos? Will the shiny side reflect the flash in a bad way?
Posted by: knitcrit at November 28, 2008 08:32 PM
Definitely make another muslin. If you don't, and your actual dress isn't right, you will kick yourself (and probably everyone else around you too )
For the shiny vs sheeny conundrum, have you looked at it in daylight? I would take it outside on a fairly bright day and look, and maybe photograph it too, as you want it to look good in the photos and presumably these will mainly be taken out of doors. (I'm guessing the shiny will look pretty good at an evening party; are you having this type of reception?)
Best of luck!
Posted by: Kay at November 28, 2008 08:42 PM
Following on from my earlier comment and having spent time this evening in my kitchen mulling over your fabric and making houmous, I think you should use the shiny (shiney?) side of your fabric as the right side! it will be great with the silk organza roses!
Posted by: Kathryn at November 28, 2008 09:17 PM
I can't help with the technical stuff, but the fabric... I understand why you cannot decide, each side has its own charm. I would be curious to see the dress made on the sheeny side though. Theoretically speaking you could for instance use the shiny side for the front panel only and the sheeny for the rest. It really depends on what look you are after, and I think other commenters came up with very good advice for checking that, like taking more pics of the fabric, maybe even draped on a dressform. Thanks for sharing your wedding preparations, I wish you luck!
Posted by: stef at November 29, 2008 08:50 AM
I would say definitely make another muslin if you can! Imagine if you didn't and it didn't fit... It's like not swatching!
I like the shiny side but without knowing what the dress will be like it's hard to say. If it is going to be at all drapey then I think it would be lovely but if it is anything like the one you linked to ages ago as an example of what you wanted I think the less glossy side would be better. That said, it is officially impossible to be overdressed at your own wedding so if you have a hunch either way then follow that. Good luck!
Posted by: Victoria at November 29, 2008 01:24 PM
1. Officially, the right side is the shiny side. For YOU, however, the right side is whichever side you like better. You might consider making a little mockup or "inspiration board" with all your fabrics (someone mentioned organza roses up there) and some dimension, and living with it for a little while. Just something small to see the effect and decide what you love.
2. Yes, definitely make another muslin. DO NOT cut your gown fabric until you are sure the fit will be what you want.
3. Not sure if these are available in the UK, but here in the US we can get those little loops as a strip of trim. Google "button loop trim."
HTH. :)
Posted by: christie at November 29, 2008 11:51 PM
Firstly, I would definitely make another muslin ~ you can't be too careful with your wedding dress!
The material? Hmm ~ this looks very like the fabric my elder daughter bought for her three (adult) maids. The girls then each decided what style they wanted and a dress-making friend made them up. However . . . one chose a dress shiny side out, one chose top and skirt glossy side out and the last one had shiny top and glossy skirt. They all looked great both 'real' and for the photos. So what I'm trying to say is: both will look stunning, hold the fabric against yourself and decide which one you would be happiest in!
Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Posted by: rosy at November 30, 2008 10:30 AM
Hmmm. Your gorgeous fabric is amazing. Either side would be fine for your dress, but it's not too shiny. You paid a premium for that shine :)
I'd make another muslin, but I'd not use cotton muslin. You may want to buy some inexpensive poly or rayon satin to make a "muslin" to see how you like the dress with shine and to get a perfect fit.
I haven't a clue with those loops though. I'd worry about the bulk they create in the zipper ovelap...hmmm...
Posted by: sil at November 30, 2008 11:32 AM
De-lurking (temporarily?) to say that my mom made my wedding dress, and we had the same sheeny/shiny issue.
I'm not completely sure, but I think we went for sheeny for the top part and shiny for the bottom, which was covered with organza (dulling it a bit). I really liked the result. :)
So I'm firmly with the 'you decide which side to use' side.
Posted by: Mizzle at December 1, 2008 09:56 AM
I'd go with the shiny side! It looks so lustrous.
I'd also make a new muslin. You can't be too careful for something this important!
-A long-time reader, first time commenter
Posted by: Jern at December 1, 2008 04:37 PM
Good luck with the dress.
Posted by: Craftydramaqueen at December 4, 2008 11:59 AM
I'm in awe of your crafting skills!! I'd go with shiny side as it matches the bridesmaid dresses and I tink it looks the nicest as well.
Definately make another muslin. I don't sew - only knit and crochet - but I can imagine how heartbreaking it would be if you made a mistake with the silk!
I think the flowers would look lovely on the shiny side as well. My wedding dress had flowers on it as well and I loved it!
Posted by: Jackie at December 4, 2008 08:04 PM
I'm afraid I can't really help you with your questions - your sewing skills are far greater than mine! I just wanted to say 'good luck'!
Posted by: Kristin at December 5, 2008 11:20 AM
Coming out of hiding to say: It's hard to tell from pictures, but think I like the shiny side better (and I'm NOT a shiny frilly person at all.) - You could at least decide if you want your dress to be at least be shinier than the bridesmaids, that might help. Best of luck!
Posted by: Lisa at December 8, 2008 02:10 PM
